Thread & Hoop

Guide

How to Calculate Cross Stitch Size and Fabric Size

Before you cut any fabric, it pays to know two numbers: how big the stitched design will be, and how big a piece of fabric you need around it. Both take less than a minute with a calculator or your phone. Here's the method, with worked examples.

Step 1: Find the stitch count

Every pattern has a stitch count, given as width × height. You'll usually find it on the cover page or near the key, written something like "120 × 90 stitches" or "120w × 90h." If a pattern doesn't list it, count the squares along the top and side of the chart; the bold lines every 10 squares make that quick.

If you're making a pattern from a photo in our pattern maker, you choose the stitch width yourself, and the tool shows the resulting size.

Step 2: Divide by your fabric count

The formula is:

Stitches ÷ fabric count = finished size in inches

Do this for the width and the height separately.

  • On Aida, use the count on the label (11, 14, 16, 18 and so on).
  • On evenweave or linen stitched "over two," divide the fabric count by two first. 28-count over two works like 14-count; 32-count over two works like 16-count.

Not sure which count to use? Our Aida count guide compares them, with a ready-made size table.

Step 3: Add a margin for finishing

You need spare fabric around the design. It gives you something to hold in a hoop while stitching, and it's what gets folded around a board or pulled taut in a frame when you're done.

A good general rule for framing is to add about 3 inches on every side. That means adding 6 inches to the width and 6 inches to the height. If you might want a wide mat or a larger frame later, a little more doesn't hurt. Too little fabric is a much bigger problem than too much: you can always trim, but you can't add.

Different finishes need different margins:

FinishSuggested margin per side
Framing (with lacing or pinning)About 3 inches
Hoop displayEnough to clear the hoop by 1–2 inches all round
Ornament or small flat finishAround 1–2 inches
Pillow or cushionDepends on your pillow size; plan seams before cutting

These are general guidelines rather than strict rules. If you're taking your piece to a professional framer, it's worth asking how much margin they prefer before you cut.

Step 4: Round up to a practical cut size

Round your result up to the next whole inch, or to the next size of pre-cut fabric if you're buying a pack. Pre-cut Aida comes in various sizes, so check the label against your numbers before buying.

Worked example 1: a small design on 14-count

Pattern size: 120 × 90 stitches. Fabric: 14-count Aida.

  1. Width: 120 ÷ 14 = 8.6 inches.
  2. Height: 90 ÷ 14 = 6.4 inches.
  3. Add 6 inches to each (3 inches per side): 14.6 × 12.4 inches.
  4. Round up: cut a piece about 15 × 13 inches.

Worked example 2: a photo portrait on 18-count

Pattern size: 200 × 250 stitches. Fabric: 18-count Aida.

  1. Width: 200 ÷ 18 = 11.1 inches.
  2. Height: 250 ÷ 18 = 13.9 inches.
  3. Add 6 inches to each: 17.1 × 19.9 inches.
  4. Round up: cut about 18 × 20 inches.

If you stitched the same chart on 14-count, the design alone would be about 14.3 × 17.9 inches, and you'd need roughly a 21 × 24 inch piece of fabric. That's why detailed photo patterns are often stitched on 16 or 18-count.

Worked example 3: evenweave over two

Pattern size: 150 × 100 stitches. Fabric: 32-count evenweave, stitched over two.

  1. Effective count: 32 ÷ 2 = 16.
  2. Width: 150 ÷ 16 = 9.4 inches.
  3. Height: 100 ÷ 16 = 6.3 inches.
  4. Add 6 inches to each: 15.4 × 12.3 inches.
  5. Round up: cut about 16 × 13 inches.

Working backwards from a frame

Sometimes you already have a frame, or you want the finished piece to fit a standard size like 5 × 7, 8 × 10 or 11 × 14 inches. In that case, flip the formula:

Desired size in inches × fabric count = number of stitches

Leave some breathing room. A design that fills the frame edge to edge often looks cramped, and the frame's lip covers a little of the edge. Many people aim for at least half an inch to an inch of plain fabric showing around the design, or more if using a mat.

Example: You have an 8 × 10 inch frame and want the design to be about 6 × 8 inches.

  • On 14-count: 6 × 14 = 84 stitches wide, 8 × 14 = 112 stitches tall.
  • On 18-count: 6 × 18 = 108 stitches wide, 8 × 18 = 144 stitches tall.

You'd then set your pattern width to around 84 (or 108) stitches. The finer fabric lets you fit more detail into the same frame.

A quick reference: stitches per inch

To get a feel for scale without a calculator, it helps to know that:

  • 14-count: 70 stitches is about 5 inches, 140 stitches is about 10 inches.
  • 18-count: 90 stitches is about 5 inches, 180 stitches is about 10 inches.
  • 11-count: 55 stitches is about 5 inches, 110 stitches is about 10 inches.

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Forgetting the margin. It's the most common cause of a piece that can't be framed properly.
  • Using the thread count for evenweave. Remember to halve it if you're stitching over two.
  • Mixing up width and height. Check which way your design is oriented before you cut, especially with photos.
  • Not allowing for shrinkage or fraying. Hemming or taping the edges stops you losing usable fabric as you work.
  • Assuming bigger is better for photos. More stitches mean more detail, but also many more hours. See our photo tips for sensible sizes.

Thread is the other half of planning

Once you know your size, you'll want to know roughly how much floss to buy. Our DMC thread guide has rough per-skein estimates and tips for buying a little extra.

Turn a photo into a free pattern

Set the stitch width and fabric count, and the pattern maker shows the finished size as you go. Then download your symbol chart, DMC thread list and printable PDF.

Open the free pattern maker