Guide

DMC Thread Guide: Strands, Colors and How Much to Buy

Almost every cross stitch pattern sold in the US lists its colors as DMC numbers. If you understand how that thread works, how to split it and roughly how far a skein goes, you'll shop with confidence and waste less. Here's what you need to know.

What is stranded cotton?

The thread used for cross stitch is called stranded cotton, embroidery floss or six-strand floss. DMC's version is sold as "Mouliné Spécial" (article 117) and is the standard many patterns are written for.

Each skein is a loose bundle of thread made up of six thin strands lightly twisted together. You almost never stitch with all six at once. Instead you cut a working length, separate out the number of strands you need, and put them back together. That's what lets one type of thread work on many different fabrics.

A standard DMC skein holds about 8.7 yards (8 meters) of six-strand thread. The cotton is mercerized, a treatment that gives it a soft sheen.

How to separate strands

1. Cut a length of about 18 inches. Longer pieces tangle and fray.
2. Hold the thread near one cut end, and gently pinch a single strand.
3. Pull that strand straight up and out. The rest will bunch up, then fall back straight.
4. Repeat until you have the number of strands you need, then lay them side by side.

Pulling strands out one at a time and recombining them (sometimes called "stripping" the thread) helps them lie flat, so your stitches look fuller and smoother.

How many strands should you use?

It depends on your fabric. Fewer, finer holes need fewer strands. These are common starting points for full cross stitches; your pattern's instructions come first.

If you're unsure, make a few test stitches in a corner of the fabric you'll trim away later. You're looking for stitches that cover the fabric nicely without looking bulky. More detail on counts is in our Aida count guide.

Understanding DMC color numbers

DMC offers around 500 solid colors in its standard stranded cotton, plus specialty lines such as variegated, metallic-effect and glow-in-the-dark threads. A few things are useful to know about the numbering:

• Numbers don't run in color order. Shades that look alike can have very different numbers. 310 is black, while the closest shades of red or blue may be scattered across the range.
• Some colors have names instead of numbers. Blanc (white), Ecru (a creamy off-white) and B5200 (a bright "snow white") are examples.
• Families of shades. Many colors come in groups from light to dark, which is handy for shading. A printed or online DMC color card helps you see these families.
• Always shop by number. Color names are descriptive but not unique, and screen colors can be misleading. The number is what guarantees you get the right shade.

How much floss will you need?

This is the question everyone asks, and the honest answer is: it depends on your fabric, how many strands you use, how much you carry thread across the back, and your personal stitching habits. The figures below are rough planning estimates only, not guarantees.

These numbers assume two strands. If you use three strands (common on 11-count), each skein will go noticeably less far. If your design has lots of scattered single stitches, often called "confetti," you'll also use more thread, because every start and stop eats up a little floss.

A simple way to estimate a color:

1. Find how many stitches use that color. Many patterns list this in the key, and pattern-making software can often count them for you.
2. Divide by the lower number for your fabric. For example, 2,300 stitches on 14-count ÷ 1,000 = 2.3, so buy 3 skeins.
3. Round up, and consider an extra skein for any color that covers a big area.

If you want a figure that matches your own stitching, try this: stitch one full 18-inch length on your fabric and count how many stitches you got. Multiply by the number of two-strand lengths you get from a skein (about 50 at 18 inches) and you'll have a personal estimate.

A note on dye lots

Thread is dyed in batches, and there can be a very slight difference between batches. It rarely matters in small areas, but for a large background or sky, many stitchers buy all the skeins for that color at the same time.

DMC vs Anchor (and other brands)

Anchor is the other big name in stranded cotton and is especially common in the UK and Europe. Both are good-quality six-strand cotton and are used the same way. The main differences:

• Different numbering. Anchor uses its own color numbers. An Anchor number does not match the DMC color with the same number.
• Conversions are approximate. Conversion charts exist, but they match the nearest shade rather than an exact twin. Side by side, converted colors can look slightly different.
• Feel and sheen. Stitchers often describe small differences in twist and sheen between brands. It's a matter of preference.
• Availability. In the US, DMC is generally the easiest to find in craft stores, which is why most American patterns use it.

Our advice for beginners: stick with the brand your pattern lists. If you need to substitute, compare the actual skeins in good daylight rather than relying on a chart alone, and try not to mix brands within one area of shading.

Is DMC floss colorfast?

DMC describes its stranded cotton as colorfast. Even so, it's sensible to wash finished pieces gently in cool water and keep an eye on the rinse water, especially with deep reds and very dark colors. Our finishing guide covers washing step by step.

Storing your floss

Thread collections grow quickly. A few ways to keep them tidy:

• Bobbins. Wind each skein onto a plastic or card bobbin and write the number on it. Store them in number order in a divided box.
• Small zip bags. Keep each skein in a labelled bag, threaded onto a ring or filed in a box. Loose skeins stay in their original wrapping with the number band.
• Project packs. For each project, gather the colors you need on a floss ring or a piece of card with holes punched in it, labelled with the chart symbol and number.
• Keep it out of direct sun. Any dyed thread can fade over time in strong light.
• Never lose the number. Once a skein's label is gone, identifying the exact shade is surprisingly hard.

Quick summary

• A DMC skein is about 8.7 yards of six-strand cotton.
• Separate strands one at a time; use two on 14-count Aida for most work.
• Buy by number, not by name.
• Use rough per-skein estimates and round up, especially for large areas.
• Treat DMC-to-Anchor conversions as near matches, not exact.