Thread & Hoop

Guide

How to Frame and Finish Cross Stitch

You've made the last stitch. Now comes the part that turns a piece of fabric into something you can hang, give or display. Finishing doesn't have to be complicated or expensive. Here's how to wash, press and mount your work at home.

Step 1: Check the back

Before you do anything else, turn the piece over. Trim any long thread tails close to the fabric and make sure all your ends are secured under stitches. Loose dark tails can show through light fabric once the piece is framed, so it's worth a few minutes now.

Step 2: Wash your stitching

Even if it looks clean, your piece has probably picked up hand oils, a little dust and hoop creases. A gentle wash freshens the fabric and helps the stitches plump up.

  1. Fill a clean basin or sink with cool water and add a small amount of mild, gentle detergent. Avoid bleach and harsh or "biological" (enzyme) detergents.
  2. Lay the piece in the water and swish it gently. Don't scrub or rub the stitches. Wash it on its own, not with other laundry or other needlework.
  3. Rinse in clean cool water, changing the water until it runs clear with no trace of detergent.
  4. Keep an eye on the water. If a color starts to run, keep rinsing in cool water until it stops, and don't leave the piece to dry while there's color in the fabric.
  5. Don't wring it. Lay it flat on a clean towel, roll the towel up and press gently to soak up most of the water.

If your piece includes a printed design, paper elements or specialty materials, check the instructions that came with them before washing. When in doubt, test or skip washing.

Step 3: Press it face down

Pressing removes creases while keeping your stitches raised and textured. The trick is to never iron the front directly, as that flattens the stitches.

  1. Lay a thick, fluffy towel on your ironing board. A white or light towel is best, so no dye transfers.
  2. Place your stitching on the towel face down, while it's still slightly damp.
  3. Cover with a thin pressing cloth or a second clean towel if you like.
  4. Press with a warm, not hot, iron. Lift and lower the iron rather than sliding it around, which can stretch the fabric.
  5. Let it dry fully, flat, before mounting.

The soft towel lets the stitches sink in, so they stay rounded on the front while the fabric around them gets smooth.

Option 1: Finish it in a hoop

A hoop finish is quick, inexpensive and looks fresh and modern. It suits small to medium pieces.

  1. Choose a hoop a little larger than your design so there's a border of plain fabric showing.
  2. Center the design in the inner ring, place the outer ring on top and tighten it gradually, gently pulling the fabric taut and straight as you go. Check that the rows of Aida run straight across.
  3. Trim the excess fabric at the back to about 1 to 1.5 inches beyond the hoop.
  4. Sew a running stitch around the edge of the excess fabric with strong thread, then pull it tight so the fabric gathers neatly onto the back of the hoop. Knot securely.
  5. To tidy the back, cut a circle of felt the size of the inner hoop and stitch it over the gathered fabric, or glue it to the hoop rim (not to the stitching).

Add a ribbon or loop at the screw to hang it, and you're done.

Option 2: Frame it at home

For a frame, your stitching needs to be stretched over a firm board so it stays flat and taut for years. Two common methods are lacing and pinning. Both work best when you've left about 3 inches of spare fabric on each side; see our size planning guide if you're planning ahead.

Choosing a board

Use acid-free mount board or acid-free foam board, cut to fit the inside of your frame (or your mat opening plus overlap) with a tiny bit of wiggle room. Acid-free materials are better for long-term display because ordinary cardboard can discolor fabric over time. Pick a board color close to your fabric, such as white under white Aida, so it doesn't show through.

Method A: Pinning to foam board

  1. Lay your stitching face down and center the foam board on top.
  2. Fold the top edge of fabric over the board. Push a straight pin into the edge (the thickness) of the foam board at the center.
  3. Pull the bottom edge taut, fold it over and pin at its center. Do the same for the left and right sides.
  4. Working outward from these center pins, add pins every half inch or so along each edge, checking the front often to make sure the rows of stitches stay straight.
  5. Fold the corners neatly and secure them.

Method B: Lacing

Lacing is the traditional method and doesn't use pins or glue, so the stitching can be removed later without damage.

  1. Center the board on the back of your stitching and fold two opposite sides (say, left and right) over it. Hold them with a few pins in the edge if needed.
  2. With a long length of strong thread, such as crochet cotton or buttonhole thread, lace back and forth between the two folded edges, about half an inch in from each edge and an inch or so apart, like lacing a shoe.
  3. Gently tighten the lacing along its length so the fabric is taut, then secure the ends.
  4. Fold the other two sides over, tuck the corners neatly and lace them the same way.
  5. Check the front. The design should be centered and the rows straight. Adjust the lacing if not.

A note on glue and adhesive boards

Self-adhesive mounting boards are quick and convenient. However, many experienced stitchers avoid putting any adhesive directly on stitching they want to keep for a long time, since it can be hard or impossible to remove later. For treasured pieces, lacing or pinning is the safer choice.

Glass or no glass?

Both are fine. Without glass, the stitches' texture is easier to see and appreciate. With glass, the piece is protected from dust. If you use glass, add a mat or spacers so the glass doesn't press directly on the stitches, which flattens them and can trap moisture. Glazing that reduces reflections or filters UV light is available from framers if your piece will hang somewhere bright.

Using a professional framer

If you'd rather hand it over, look for a framer who has handled needlework before. It's reasonable to ask how they'll mount it, and to request that they lace or pin rather than glue, and use acid-free materials.

Option 3: Ornaments and small finishes

Small designs make lovely ornaments, gift tags and bookmarks. A simple approach:

  1. Cut a piece of card or thin board the shape you want, slightly larger than the design.
  2. Trim your stitching, leaving about an inch around the card, and fold the fabric to the back. Lace or glue the edges of the excess fabric to the back of the card.
  3. Cover the back with felt cut to the same shape.
  4. Stitch or glue a cord or ribbon around the edge to hide the join, adding a loop for hanging.

Another easy option is a "flat-fold" ornament: back the stitching with felt, stitch the two together a little outside the design, and trim with pinking shears or a neat border.

For more ways to do it, including mini hoops, stuffed ornaments and perforated paper, see how to make cross-stitch Christmas ornaments.

Option 4: Pillows and cushions

Larger pieces can become a pillow front. Cut a backing fabric the same size as your trimmed stitching, place them right sides together, and sew around the edges, leaving a gap to turn it right side out. Turn, stuff with fiberfill or insert a pillow form, and close the gap by hand. Adding a fabric border around the stitching first lets you make a bigger pillow from a smaller design. Washing and pressing before you assemble helps it look crisp.

Caring for finished pieces

  • Hang framed work out of strong, direct sunlight to help prevent fading.
  • Avoid damp spots, such as bathroom walls, which can encourage mildew.
  • Dust unglazed pieces gently with a soft brush.
  • Store unframed pieces flat or rolled (stitches outward) in acid-free tissue, rather than folded.

Ready for the next one?

Once you've finished a piece, the next one always goes a little faster. If you'd like something personal next time, a pet or a family home makes a meaningful gift. Our photo tips explain how to choose a picture that stitches up well, and our beginner's how-to is there if you need a refresher.

Turn a photo into a free pattern

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